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SINK AND BATHROOM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - FAQ's:

Q: What tools should I have before I begin installing my faucet?
A: Some common tools include: Basin wrench Adjustable wrench Silicone sealant - Plumber's Putty is not generally recommended Teflon® tape Channel locks Screwdriver (Phillips and slotted) Flashlight Please refer to the Maintenance & Installation Sheet supplied with the faucet to make sure you have all the necessary tools. If you need a Maintenance & Installation Sheet for your faucet visit the Online Catalog. When your product appears, select the Maintenance & Installation option to view the installation information.

Q: Although a wrench can not be used on the caps or bonnet nuts, can a strap wrench be used? A: Yes, you just need to be cautious not to scratch or bend the part.

Q: My single hole, single handle kitchen faucet keeps loosening up. What do I need?
A: Most likely you have an Americast sink by American Standard. You need to put plumbers cloth between the bottom of the sink and the bracket to allow it to grip. If your sink is a different brand, you need to clean between the sink and bracket to get a good surface and tighten down on the bracket nut.

Q: On my widespread kitchen, bathroom sink, lavatory, or Roman tub faucet, no matter how I put my stem in the handle turns the wrong. What's wrong?
A: On all widespreads the end valves have to be oriented so that the inbound (hard line) is away from the spout and the hose or corrugated line is toward the spout. Otherwise reversing the stem in the valve will not make the handle turn in the right direction. Another way to check is to look down in the valve and the seat must be away from the spout in both hot and cold valves. If one or both end valves are installed incorrectly the only way to fix is to re-install the bodies in the appropriate orientation.

Q: On my widespread kitchen, bathroom sink, lavatory, or Roman tub faucet there is too much of a gap between the escutcheon and the handle. How can I fix this?
A: A small gap is normal and necessary to allow proper movement of the handle without damaging the escutcheon below it. An excessive gap results from improper height adjustment at the time of installation. To fix it: Loosen the nut under the counter/sink. Then screw the escutcheon UP just enough to make up the gap. Then re-tighten the nut. This lowers the valve and reduces the gap

Q: Why does water come out of my showerhead and the spout at the same time?
A: You're experiencing "shower-rise" where the water can’t get out of the spout as fast as it flows through the valve. This causes the water to back up and come out the showerhead. There can be one of several reasons for this: The valve is upside down The length from the valve to the tub spout is outside of the 8" to 18" rule There is more than one 90 degree angle Something other than copper or galvanized pipe was used going to the spout The most common reason is that there is something restricting the water flow to the spout, e.g. solder or something lodged in the pipe. If this is the cause of shower-rise it is possible to remove the blockage by removing the tub spout; then, feeding a plumber’s snake or a speedometer cable up through the tub drop. The act of feeding it causes it to twirl and loosen the blockage. Be sure to flush the valve before reinstalling the tub spout. Be sure to check the tub spout itself for blockage. After installation and closing of the wall, there is little that can be done to remedy this situation if the cause is #1 through 4.

Q: How can I make sure my shower is safe?
A: To avoid dangerously hot temperatures, make sure your water heater is set at 120º F or below. Install a pressure balance tub and shower valve, such as those found in the broad selection of the Delta® Monitor® series. Set the valve’s adjustable rotational limit stop to prevent the temperature handle from being turned to dangerously hot levels. Test the tub/shower water with your hand before bathing.

Q: What is the adjustable rotational limit stop?
A: The adjustable rotational limit stop found on Delta® Monitor® valves, allows you to set a maximum hot water temperature that flows out of the tub/shower. When set correctly, this safety feature ensures that the handle in your tub/shower faucet never goes beyond the set level, resulting in a safe bathing temperature. It may need to be readjusted if the inlet water temperatures change. For example, during the winter, the cold water temperature is colder than it is during the summer, which could result in varying outlet temperatures. Typical temperatures for a comfortable bath or shower range from 90º F to 110º F.

Q: When or why does the rotational limit stop need to be readjusted?
A: The adjustable rotational limit stop found on Delta® Monitor® valves, allows you to set a maximum hot water temperature that flows out of the tub/shower. When set correctly, this safety feature ensures that the handle in your tub/shower faucet never goes beyond the set level, resulting in a safe bathing temperature It may need to be readjusted if the inlet water temperatures change. For example, during the winter, the cold water temperature is colder than it is during the summer, which could result in varying outlet temperatures. Typical temperatures for a comfortable bath or shower range from 90º F to 110º F.

Q: Why do my handles work backward on my two-handle faucet?
A: On a two-handle kitchen or bathroom faucet, if the handles rotate in the wrong direction, simply rotate the right stem stop assembly 180 degrees. This will change the rotation of the handle to the other direction.

Q: Can I change the handles on my two-handle faucet?
A: Yes. Delta® two-handle kitchen, bathroom and bath tub/shower models can be fitted with a wide variety of handle styles to suit your tastes. Changing handles is simple and takes less than five minutes. If you are changing from lever handles to knob or porcelain cross handles, you will need to re-orient the right (cold) handle stem stop so the stem stop faces inward. If you are changing from knob or porcelain cross handles to lever handles, you will need to re-orient the right (cold) handle stem stop so the stem stop faces outward (both left and right handle stem stops should orient to the right).

Q: Can I change my single-handle knob faucet to a lever?
A: Single-handle lavatory and tub/shower models can be converted from a clear or smoked knob handle to a lever handle. However, the "action" of a lever handle differs from a knob handle so you also need a different ball valve (RP20111) in your faucet for the lever handle to operate properly. A single-handle faucet converted from knob handle to lever handle will operate slightly differently from an "original equipped" lever model.

Q: What do I do if my single-lever bath tub or shower leaks under the handle?
A: If this is a non-pressure balance bath tub or shower: On a single-handle bath tub or shower, you need to tighten the adjusting ring or replace the cam and packing. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs. If leak persists, you may need to replace the cam and packing. Shut off water supply. Cover drain opening so parts don't fall into it. If you have a lever handle with a red and blue hot/cold button, pry it off to expose the set screw. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench and remove the handle. If you have a knob handle, pry off the handle button, remove the screw and lift off the handle. Unscrew the cap counterclockwise and lift off. If the cap is too difficult to unscrew by hand, loosen the gray or white adjusting ring in the cap and try again. If it is still too difficult to remove by hand, place a crescent wrench at the top of it and turn counterclockwise. To avoid damaging the faucet finish, you may want to place a jar opener gripper between the cap and wrench or a heavy cloth such as a towel between the cap and wrench.CAUTION: IF YOU NOTICE THE CAM TURNING ALSO, QUIT TURNING IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A PLUMBER. Remove cam, packing and ball by lifting up on ball stem. Place replacement packing and cam over stem of ball and engage tab on cam with slot in body. Push down. Partially unscrew adjusting ring and then place cap over ball stem and hand tighten onto body, while pushing down on cam to keep cam's tab engaged with slot in body. Tighten the adjusting ring until no water leaks around the stem when the faucet is in the full on hot and cold mixed position and pressure is exerted down on the handle. Loosening and tightening the adjusting ring also controls how hard or easy the handle is to use. Over tightening of the adjusting ring can cause premature wear of the seal surfaces necessitating frequent repairs.

Q: Why doesn't my pop-up sink stopper stop the water from draining?
A: Look under the sink to be sure the strap assembly that operates the stopper is properly adjusted and the nut holding the horizontal rod in the drain assembly is secure. Be sure the stopper is properly adjusted. Note: The cap on the stopper is not designed to be flush with the flange. A seal is created by the weight of the water, which pushes the rubber seal under the stopper against the flange in the sink. If your drain stopper has been installed to be non-removable, check to see if any section of the pivot rod or strap assembly hits underneath the counter or sink. If so, the stopper can't drop far enough to create a seal in the sink. Depending on what is blocking the action of the pivot rod or strap, you may be able to rotate the pop-up sink stopper slightly so it no longer bumps against anything under the sink. If everything is adjusted properly, check the amount of silicone or putty between the flange and the sink itself. (Although a white gasket is supplied with each pop-up to seal under the flange, if a sink has an unusually rough surface in the drain area, it may be necessary to use silicone instead of the gasket.) It is possible to determine if there is insufficient silicone or putty under the flange by using a rubber stopper to seal the drain opening only. You can also press down on the stopper to attempt a manual seal and determine if water is leaking around the pop-up flange. If there is insufficient silicone or putty between the sink and the pop-up flange, water will leak out of the sink into the drain, even with the drain outlet fully closed. Note: Water will not leak onto the cabinet floor; it will seep into the drain via the overflow holes in the drain body Remove the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the body of the pop-up stopper. Lift the stopper out. Reattach the nut that holds the horizontal rod to the pop-up body. Test to see if water is leaking around the flange by plugging your drain with a rubber stopper. Do not cover the outside of the drain flange. If the leak continues, remove the flange and apply more silicone or putty under the flange. To remove the flange: Unscrew the large nut under the sink. Pull the flange straight up through the sink. If the flange sticks to the sink, gently pry it loose. Apply a fresh, uniform-round bead of silicone or putty. Reinstall the flange and tighten the nut under the sink. Note: Do not rotate the flange or pop-up stopper body after re-installation. Rotation may cause the silicone or putty seal to break, which may cause leakage. Caution: Before using plumber's putty, be sure to read the warning labels to make sure it won't stain marble or attack plastic sinks or rubber components.

Q: After turning off my pull-out spray faucet, water continues to drip for a minute or so. Is something wrong?
A: Nothing is wrong. Water is simply emptying from the aerator and the hose of your faucet.

Q: What do I do if my two-handle faucet leaks under the handle?
A: On a two-handle faucet, try tightening the bonnet. If that does not work, you may need to replace the stem.

Q: What do I do about water dripping from the spout of my two-handle (or three-handle) bath tub/shower faucet?
A: First, we need to find out if the hot or cold valve is causing the leak. Let's begin by troubleshooting with the hot valve: Shut off the hot water supply. If you can't find the shut-off for your tub/shower valve, shut off the water to your house by using your water shut-off valve. Remove the faucet handle. To do this, depending on your handle type, you will need a Phillips screwdriver or an Allen wrench. Remove the chrome bonnet nut using an adjusting wrench. Remove stem extender. Remove stem assembly by pulling straight out. Remove the extender and stem assembly. Remove the seats and springs. Examine them for wear or debris and wipe out any debris in the depression where the seats and springs sit in the valve body. Replace the seats and springs. Reassemble the faucet to see if the drip has stopped. If the drip persists, repeat the above steps on the cold valve. If you've replaced the seats and springs and the problem continues, replace both stem assemblies. If all of the above has not fixed your leak, and your valve is more than 10 or 15 years old, it is possible that the actual faucet body may have developed a leak. If so, you will need to replace your bath tub/shower valve with a new one. Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

Q: What should I do if water is leaking behind the wall of my bath tub/shower valve?
A: Shut off the water supplies to your bath tub/shower valve. If you cannot find the supplies for your bath tub/shower valve, shut off the water to your house using your main shut-off valve. Call a licensed professional plumbing contractor for assistance. Note: Consumer safety is our number one concern. If you do not have experience with plumbing repairs, we recommend that you contact a licensed plumber for tub/shower repairs.

Q: My hose doesn't extend as far as it used to. What could be wrong?
A: The hose for the pull-out faucet is flexible. Make sure it isn't caught on something underneath the sink.

Q: Sometimes I have a mixed spray and stream pattern coming from my pull-out. What could cause this?
A: The pull-out uses a side-to-side diverter to change spray patterns. Make sure the diverter is pushed all the way to one side or the other to avoid a mixed spray/stream pattern.

Q: My vegetable spray hose is leaking, why?
A: The white retainer and o-ring were displaced through repeated installation and removal of the quick connect hose connections.

Q: Are "tankless" water heaters recommended?
A: Often the outgoing water pressure from a "tankless" water heater is relatively low. As a result, these devices are not generally recommended for use with pressure balanced units due to the possible differences in water pressure from the hot and cold lines. For example, if you were to have 20 PSI on the hot supply line and 50 PSI on the cold, since pressure balancing adjusts to the low pressure, your resulting operating pressure in the shower will be reduced.

Q: If I have large differences between hot and cold pressure in my house, what effect does that have on operating pressure of a Monitor valve?
A: The Delta Faucet Monitor Series is equipped with a stainless steel pressure balancing spool. This pressure balancing unit protects the user by equalizing the water pressure inside of the shower valve itself. This protects the user if there is a decrease in pressure from the hot or the cold supply. If that were to occur the faucet will automatically readjust the water pressure from the opposite side so that it is equal with the supply that dropped in pressure. Meaning that if someone is in the shower and the toilet is flushed, the valve will reduce the hot water pressure coming into the faucet to match the cold. This ensures a scald free environment and a constant temperature within + or - 3 degrees Fahrenheit. If you always have large differences between hot/cold water pressures, then the faucet will only allow the minimum amount of pressure through. If you have a hot water supply of 25 pounds per square inch and a cold water supply of 60 pounds per square inch then the faucet will always operate at 25 pounds per square inch.

Q: Why does my new faucet have reduced flow? My old faucet had plenty of volume.
A: Please keep in mind that all new faucets since 1994 are restricted to conserve water per EPA code mandates. Older faucets had no restrictions. Beyond intentional flow restriction, new installations can sometimes have reduced flow if the lines are not flushed prior to installation of aerators or shower heads. The flow restrictors required for aerators and shower heads can clog, resulting in greatly reduced flow rates. Remove the aerator or shower head and make sure the flow restrictor is not clogged.

Q: Why does my water pressure and/or water temperature change when I'm taking a shower and water is called for elsewhere in the house (by a dishwasher, washing machine or toilet flush)?
A: Multiple usage of water in your house causes fluctuations in water pressure. If, while showering, your water temperature changes substantially and pressure drops when water is called for elsewhere in the house, your faucet is not equipped with a pressure balance device. Under certain circumstances, this could present a safety hazard. While no faucet manufacturer can compensate for the water pressure fluctuation, Delta® offers Monitor® pressure balance shower, tub and tub/shower valves that feature our exclusive ScaldGuard® valve. This safety feature maintains a balanced pressure of hot and cold water to maintain water temperature within +/-3° range when a valve is turned on or off elsewhere in the house.

Q: Can I change my standard bath tub, shower or bath tub/shower faucet to a pressure balance faucet?
A: Pressure balance faucets use different valve technology than non-pressure balance units. To obtain the benefits of pressure balance, you will need to purchase a new Delta® Monitor® pressure balance faucet with our unique ScaldGuard® valve.